#99: What Chimney Plug Do I Use if I have No Damper?

by blogediter | Aug 24, 2017 | Fireplaces

#99: What Chimney Plug Do I Use if I have No Damper?

99-1 Wide Open Chimney Flue

99-3 Flueblocker installed

99-4 Chimney Balloon installed

Fireplace #99: Wide-Open Smoke Chamber and Flue, No Hardware

These fireplaces with no damper or hardware are usually quite old. They represent a worst-possible-case-scenario for heating and cooling loss. Once you get this plugged, you will notice an immediate difference in the home.

You can basically take your pick from the chimney plugs we offer. You just need to select the height you want to plug the flue, and measure length and width of that location (image 99-1)
Here are the advantages of each:

The Flueblocker comes in many sizes. So you can select one that is slightly larger than your measurements and press-fit it in place. This wool pad offers a tight seal and insulation properties. This is good if you prefer a fix it and forget it solution. (image 99-3)
The Chimney Balloon provides a tight seal and sound buffering capability. It is an inflatable, so it is less durable that the wool plug. The Chimney Balloon is about 10″ tall when inflated. So you must install it low in the flue where the walls are parallel, so it can grab the walls. It does particularly well at stopping odors and bugs. (image 99-4)

#20: I Have a Vestal Damper with a High Flue Tile, How Do I Plug the Chimney?

by blogediter | Aug 23, 2017 | Fireplaces

#20: I Have a Vestal Damper with a High Flue Tile, How Do I Plug the Chimney?

20-1 Open Vestal Damper with High Flue Tile

20-2 Closed Vestal Damper with Center Handle

20-3 Installed Above Vestal Damper Frame

20-4 Flueblocker Pressed in below Damper Frame Opening

If the Fireplace #20: Vestal Damper with Center Handle and High Flue Tile

Vestal Dampers are very common in masonry fireplaces of solid brick or stone. These are their characteristics:

They have a long rectangular cast iron damper door.
The door has a 16″ long curved cast iron handle sticking down from the center of the damper door.
The handle has saw teeth on the back, and a loop on the end.
The shaft of the handle sticks through a metal bracket that is attached to the damper frame.

The nice thing about Vestal dampers is they are very easy to disassemble. In this particular application you can see through the damper opening. The square flue tile starts 4 feet above the damper. This makes accessing the flue tile difficult, since it is out of hands reach. So lets look at ways to plug the fireplace down by the damper.

If you want a tight and durable plug, use the Flueblocker

20-8 Cotter Pin on Handle

If you want to plug the flue tight, and for a long duration, then go with a Flueblocker. It seals and insulates very well. You can install it above (image 20-3), or below the damper frame (image 20-4).

Installing above the damper frame is the tightest fit:

First, straighten and pull the cotter pin that holds the damper handle to the damper door (image 20-8). Then remove the damper handle.
With the handle removed, you can push up on the damper door. It is now unhinged and free, since it is just setting in there by gravity. To fully remove it turn the door sideways and lower it down through the damper frame.
Measure the damper frame opening. and install a Flueblocker that is at least the size of the opening. Here are some examples:
If the hole is 15″ to 23″ long = Buy a 8×24 Flueblocker
If the hole is 24″ to 31″ long = Buy a 8×32 Flueblocker
If the hole is 32″ to 44″ long = By a 9×45 Flueblocker

The Flueblocker is a wool pad with extra hems, so you can trim them to size with sharp scissors. Leave the pad at least 2″ larger than the hole, so it fits snug.

The Chimney Balloon

20-9: Chimney Balloon Installed

The Chimney Balloon can work well in this application. It generally installs just above the damper frame at the bottom of the smoke shelf. It gives you a very tight seal, however it is an inflatable. So it is not as durable as a wool Flueblocker. And it requires a top-off on air every 6 to 12 months, because of the swings in outside air temperature. Here are the steps to use a Chimney Balloon:

Remove the damper handle and damper door (see instructions above.)
With a folding carpenters ruler or tape measure, get the length and width of the smoke chamber area just above the damper frame.
Buy a Chimney Balloon that is a little large for the application. For example, If you measure 33″L x 13″ W, buy a 36×15 Chimney Balloon.
When you receive your Chimney Balloon, lay it flat, then fold it in half length-wise (Like a big soft shell taco) away from the handle valve. This will allow you to easily tuck the deflated Chimney Balloon through the damper opening.
Tuck the deflated Chimney Balloon through the damper opening, so it lays on top of the damper frame. Then start blowing air into it. The damper frame will hold up the balloon as you inflate, and the belly of the balloon will be pressed against the damper frame. The handle valve will be sticking out of the damper frame opening. (image 20-9)
Once the Chimney Balloon starts grabbing the sides of the chimney wall, do not reposition the balloon. The material has a grabbing property on its outer layer. Moving it while it is grabbing will risk a puncture.
Once it is installed, you close the valve on the handle. You can then remove the inflation tube if you want to, or you can leave it hang down as a reminder.

#21: I Have a Vestal Damper with a Rigid Handle, How Do I Plug the Chimney?

by blogediter | Aug 23, 2017 | Fireplaces

#21: I Have a Vestal Damper with a Rigid Handle, How Do I Plug the Chimney?

21-1 Open Vestal Damper

21-2 Closed Vestal Damper

21-3 Cotter Pin on Damper Handle

21-4 Where to Measure Your Flue Tile

Fireplace #21: Vestal Damper with Center Handle and Low Flue Tile

These Vestal Dampers are very common in masonry fireplaces of solid brick or stone. These are their characteristics of Vestal dampers:

They have a long rectangular cast iron damper door.
The door has a 16″ long curved cast iron handle sticking down from the center of the damper door.
The handle has saw teeth on the back, and a loop on the end.
The shaft of the handle sticks through a metal bracket that is attached to the damper frame.

The nice thing about these Vestal dampers is they are very easy to disassemble. This is so chimney sweeps can get easy access to the smoke chamber for cleaning. In this particular application you can see through the damper opening. The flue tile terminates a vertical distant of about 16″ above the damper. This makes for a very short smoke chamber, and easy access to the flue tile. That makes the flue tile an ideal location to plug. If you have a Vestal Damper, but your flue tile is higher and out of reach by hand, see the article about Vestal dampers with high flue tiles.

If you want to plug it and forget it, use the Flueblocker

If you don’t use your fireplace very much and you just want a way to plug the flue for a long duration, go with a Flueblocker. Here is a video on how the Flueblocker works. You will need to take a quick measurement of the flue tile with a ruler (Image 21-4). Then buy a Flueblocker that size, or a little large for the hole. The Flueblocker is a wool pad with extra hems, so you can trim it to size with sharp scissors. The handle on the Flueblocker is only 1 foot long, so you may want some 6″ handle extenders for your Flueblocker to make it easier to stuff in the flue tile.

What about the Chimney Balloon?

21-6 Chimney Balloon in Flue Tile

You can use a Chimney Balloon to plug a low flue like this. You would need to get a measurement of the length and width of the flue tile first (image 21-4), so you will know what size Chimney Balloon to use. Flue tiles generally take a 12×12 or 15×15. Also purchase a HEK handle extender to give the handle some extra length to reach the flue tile (image 21-6). The Chimney Balloon will require a top-off of air each 6 to 12 months, and it is not quite as durable as the other two options above. So consider it a “Plan B” for this application.

Super Easy Diagram of the Names of the 8 Main Parts of a Fireplace and Chimney?

by blogediter | Aug 23, 2017 | Fireplaces

So you want to know the names of the parts of a fireplace and chimney?

Just so we have our chimney terminology straight, here is a labeled diagram of the parts of a fireplace and chimney.

This is a list of the names of the parts of a fireplace and chimney:

Ash Chute: A hole in the floor of the firebox that you can sweep ash and burnt debris into. It is often connected to a pocket area below the firebox of in the basement that has an small metal exterior door for removal of fireplace ash.

Crown: The crown of the chimney is the flat surface at the top of the chimney structure. This is also the platform on which the chimney cap sits.

Damper Door: This is a metal door that pivots and open and closes. Sometimes it has a hinge and sometimes it is just a metal flap setting in place by gravity. They can be cast iron or sheet metal. Homeowners often call the damper the “flue” or “flume” but in fact the flue is the hole that the damper is closing off.

Damper Frame: This is the metal frame that is mortared in place and is immovable. The damper door connects against this frame. The frame can be sheet metal or cast iron.

Firebox: This is the open mouth area of the hearth that you put the logs and have the fire.

Flue Tile: This is the area of the chimney where the walls are parallel and the chimney makes a long run to the chimney top. It is often lined with a clay flue tile, or a metal flue liner. Sometimes it is just bare brick.

fireplace fresh air intake parts of a fireplace and chimney

fresh air intake part of a fireplace

Fresh Air Inlet: This is not shown on our diagram, but the left image is a photo of one. This is a vent on the side or back wall of the firebox that vents through the wall to the outside. Fresh air intakes are designed to give the firebox plenty of outside combustion air while you have a fire burning.

Lintel: This is the top lip of the fireplace hearth opening. If you are setting a log in the firebox and you hit your head on the bricks above your head… that is the lintel.

#1: I Have a Round Butterfly Damper High Above the Firebox. How Do I Plug the Flue?

by blogediter | Aug 22, 2017 | Fireplaces

#1: I Have a Round Butterfly Damper High Above the Firebox. How Do I Plug the Flue?

1-1 Closed Round Butterfly Damper High

1-2 Open Round Butterfly Damper High

1-3 Where to Measure

Fireplace #1: Butterfly Damper 3 Feet above the Firebox

These high-up butterfly center pivot dampers are usually in prefabricated zero clearance fireplaces made by Heatelator. Here are the characteristics:

The damper handle that opens the circular center pivot damper is usually on the outside lintel face of the fireplace.
You will notice that there are horizontal slats cut in the sheet metal just below the closed damper.

Those vent slats below the round damper gives you a pretty good place to tuck in a square Flueblocker. Measure the area below the damper (Image 1-3), and buy a Flueblocker that is a little larger than that area. Most of the time it requires a 12″x12″ Flueblocker, or a 16″x16″ trimmed down to fit. Just make sure you keep that pressure fit by having the pad be larger than the hole.

Because this install location is up out of reach, you will likely need to buy some extra 6″ Handle Extenders for your Flueblocker.

#5: I Have a Square Drop-Down Trapdoor Damper and a Round Flue Pipe. How Do I Plug the Flue?

by blogediter | Aug 21, 2017 | Fireplaces

#5: I Have a Square Drop-Down Trapdoor Damper and a Round Flue Pipe. How Do I Plug the Flue?

5-1 Closed Square Trapdoor Side-Hinge Damper

5-2 Open Square Trapdoor Side-Hinge Damper

Fireplace #5: Square Trapdoor Side-Hinged Damper Covering a Round Flue

So you saw the square damper, and I bet you thought you had a square flue. Surprise! it is covering a round flue pipe! This is one of the easiest of all the fireplaces to plug, because the damper drops out of the way, and you get a clear shot at the round chimney. These sheet metal dampers are often fitted on Majestic or Superior brand zero-clearance pre-fabricated fireplaces. These were popular in the 70’s and early 80’s, and it is hard to get damper parts for them anymore. The sheet metal often warps so bad that they drop open on their own.

Wood Burning Fireplace Users:

Open the damper and make a diameter measurement of the hole just above the damper (image 5-2), then buy a Flueblocker that will fit in that hole. Or buy one that is a bit big for the hole, since you can then trim it down to fit with a sharp pair of scissors. Here are some examples:

Example 1: You measure 8” diameter = You buy a 9” Round Flueblocker
Example 2: You measure 9” diameter = You buy a 9” Round Flueblocker
Example 3: You measure a 11” diameter = You buy a 12” Round Flueblocker

Flueblockers are physically a little bit larger than their labeled size. This is so they can press in to fit and hold in place by pressure tension. To install, you just press it right into place into the round chimney flue. It is up to you if you want to close the damper below the plug.

IMPORTANT! ESPECIALLY FOR FORGETFUL PEOPLE!:

If you close the damper below the Flueblocker, mark the fireplace VERY CLEARLY that the chimney is plugged. It is easy to forget about the Flueblocker up above the damper. You MUST open the damper AND remove the Flueblocker to use the fireplace.

Gas Log Users:

If you have a gas log set in this fireplace, you have a decision to make. Here are your two options:

You can turn off the gas line to this fireplace and put in a small 9×9 or 12×12 Chimney Balloon just above the damper. So if a house guest fires up the gas logs without asking, he won’t back up exhaust fumes into the house. The Chimney Balloon will burst and fall out, since it is designed to do that. The downside to this, is the Chimney Balloon is an inflatable and not as durable as a Flueblocker.
You can turn off the gas line and remove the gas log set and then put in a Flueblocker. DO NOT light a fire under the Flueblocker. If you do light a fire under a Flueblocker bad things happen…enough said.

Gas logs are a separate conversation. We also have an article on how gas logs can poison you or pick your pocket over time.