#32: I Have a Welded Side Handle Damper, How Do I Plug the Flue?

#32: I Have a Welded Side Handle Damper, How Do I Plug the Flue?

#32: I Have a Welded Side Handle Damper, How Do I Plug the Flue?

Fireplace #32: Welded Side Handle Damper

These Welded Handle Dampers are very common in masonry fireplaces of solid brick or stone. These are their characteristics:

  • They have a long rectangular sheet-iron damper frame and matching door.
  • The face of the damper door has a long straight handle welded onto it (image 32-1)
  • The handle swings forward and back to open and close the damper.
  • All of the damper hardware is welded or bolted, and is not removable.
  • The damper door is almost straight vertical when closed.

Flueblocker is the best option

The Flueblocker seals and insulates very well. You can tuck it in the peaked area below the closed damper. (image 32-2)

  • Measure the length and depth of the peaked area below the damper door.
  • Order a Flueblocker that is a a few inches larger in both dimensions.
  • With the damper closed, press the Flueblocker into the space below the damper.
  • Cut a slot in the Flueblockers wool pad to allow the damper handle to come down thru the pad. (Image 32-2)

#31: I Have a Slip Knuckle Damper, How Do I Plug the Flue?

#31: I Have a Slip Knuckle Damper, How Do I Plug the Flue?

#31: I Have a Slip Knuckle Damper, How Do I Plug the Flue?

Fireplace #31: Slip Knuckle Damper with Side Handle

These Slip Knuckle Dampers are very common in masonry fireplaces of solid brick or stone. These are their characteristics:

  • They have a long rectangular cast iron damper door.
  • The door has a short handle with a loop threaded through a horizontal shaft with flared knuckles (image 31-2).
  • The damper is set low in the flue, just above the firebox.
  • The damper handle is attached to the damper door by a cotter pin (image 31-1 see red arrow)

 The Flueblocker is your most durable option

If you want to plug the flue tight, and for a long duration, then go with a Flueblocker. It seals and insulates very well. Install it above the damper frame for the tightest fit:

 

  • First, straighten and pull the cotter pin that holds the damper handle to the damper door (image 31-1). This allows you to swing the damper handle out of the way
  • With the handle removed, you can push up on the damper door. It is now unhinged and free, since it is just setting in there by gravity. So flip the damper door back and out of the way.
  • Measure the damper frame opening. and install a Flueblocker that is slightly larger than the damper frame opening. Here are some examples:- If the hole is 24″ to 31″ long = Buy a 8×32 Flueblocker
    – If the hole is 32″ to 44″ long = By a 9×45 Flueblocker
  • Slip the Flueblocker into the same space that the damper door use to occupy. Once tucked into place, it will seal much better than the metal damper door did.
  •  The Flueblocker is a wool pad with extra hems, so you can trim them to size with sharp scissors. Leave the pad at least 2″ larger than the hole, so it fits snug.

#28: I Have a Large Rectangular Damper that Pivots in the Middle. How Do I Plug the Flue?

#28: I Have a Large Rectangular Damper that Pivots in the Middle. How Do I Plug the Flue?

#28: I Have a Large Rectangular Damper that Pivots in the Middle. How Do I Plug the Flue?

Fireplace #28: Rectangle center-pivot butterfly damper

These high-up  center pivot rectangular dampers are not very common, and are usually on the two-sided fireplaces that have large fireboxes. Here are some of their characteristics:

  • The damper is set over 2 feet above the firebox.
  • The rectangular damper is almost as wide as it is long.
  • There is rigid damper hardware below the damper to actuate the opening of the door.
  • The smoke chamber narrows to a flue tile above the damper.

These fireplaces usually require a large square or rectangle custom made Flueblocker that is installed right above the firebox, and below the damper hardware. If you have this application call 608-467-0229 and talk with technical support. We will have you take a few measurements, and we can give you a quote and lead time on a custom Flueblocker.

#26: I have a Rumford Fireplace Damper, How Do I Plug the Flue

#26: I have a Rumford Fireplace Damper, How Do I Plug the Flue

#26: I have a Rumford Fireplace Damper, How Do I Plug the Flue

Fireplace #26: Rumford Fireplace Damper

These Rumford Dampers are very common in masonry fireplaces of solid brick. These are their characteristics:

  • They have a long rectangular cast iron damper door.
  • The door has a 16″ long curved cast iron handle sticking down from the center of the damper door. The handle has saw teeth on the back, and a loop on the end.
  • The shaft of the handle sticks through a metal bracket (image 26-1)
  • The top of the firebox has a tall and tapered throat leading to the damper
  • The footprint of the firebox is a very sharply angled trapezoid (image 26-3). So the back of the firebox is not as wide as the front.

The nice thing about these Rumford dampers is they have a long tall taper from the firebox to the damper, and the damper handle is easy to remove. The handle is usually held on with a cotter pin .

To plug it below the damper, use the Flueblocker

The Flueblocker can be easily fit into the area below the damper. It seals and insulates very well. You will have to remove the damper handle, or cut a slot in the Flueblocker to accommodate the handle, to fit the Flueblocker into the throat that leads to the damper. When you order a Flueblocker make sure it is at least as big as your largest measurements of the trapezoid. (see area marked in yellow)

 

What about the Chimney Balloon?

The Chimney Balloon can work well in this application. It generally installs into the exact same spot the Flueblocker would go. But keep in mind a Chimney Balloon will be about 8″ tall when inflated. (see image on the left) It gives you a very tight seal, however it is an inflatable. So it is not as durable as the other options. And it requires a top-off on air every 6 to 12 months because of the swings in outside air temperature.

#25: I Have a Multi-Hinge Damper, How Do Plug the Flue?

#25: I Have a Multi-Hinge Damper, How Do Plug the Flue?

#25: I Have a Multi-Hinge Damper, How Do Plug the Flue?

 Fireplace #25: Multi-Hinge Damper

These Multi Hinge Dampers are not very common. They are sturdy, but also really over-engineered and not easy to disassemble. Here are the characteristics of this damper:

  • You swing the center damper handle that hangs down into the firebox from front to back to open and close the damper door.
  • There are numerous cotter pins operating hinges that actuate the damper.
  • There is a long rectangular damper frame and matching damper door.
  • Multi- Hinge dampers actuate almost identically to Vestal Dampers, except they have a more complicated actuator.

Because of the hardware below the damper, there are two ways to plug this flue.

If you want to plug it and forget it, use the Flueblocker

If you don’t use your fireplace very much and you just want a way to plug the flue for a long duration, go with a Flueblocker. Here is a video on how the Flueblocker works. Remove the cotter pin that holds the damper door to the damper handle (image 25-2 see red arrow). Measure the length and width of the damper door, and buy a Flueblocker that is slightly larger that that size. You will likely need a 8×32 or 9×45 Flueblocker.

You will need to thread the wool pad of the Flueblocker between the detached damper handle, and the damper door. It is a tight fit, but the wool pad will effectively cover the closed damper door.

What about the Chimney Balloon?

If you are lucky enough to have a low flue tile like this photo, you can use a Chimney Balloon to plug the flue tile. You would need to get a measurement of the length and width of the flue tile first (image 25-3), so you will know what size Chimney Balloon to use. Flue tiles generally take a 12×12, 15×15 or 24×12. Also purchase a HEK handle extender to give the handle some extra length to reach the flue tile. The Chimney Balloon will require a top-off of air each 6 to 12 months, and it is not quite as durable as the other two options above. So consider it a “Plan B” for this application.