#51: I Have a Long Rectangular Center-Pivot Damper with Chains Hanging Down. How Do I Plug the Flue?

by blogediter | Aug 31, 2017 | Fireplaces

#51: I Have a Long Rectangular Center-Pivot Damper with Chains Hanging Down. How Do I Plug the Flue?

51-1 Closed Long Center-Pivot Chain Damper

51-2 Open Long Center-Pivot Chain Damper

51-3 Pull Chain on Chain Damper

51-4 Open Center-Pivot Damper Door

Fireplace #51: Long Rectangle Center-Pivot Damper with Chains

These long center-pivot (butterfly) rectangular dampers are rare. They are usually in custom masonry fireplaces of solid construction brick or stone. They come in a variety of sizes. These are their characteristics of the long rectangle butterfly chain dampers:

They have a long rectangular damper door that pivots on a center shaft. (image 51-1 and 51-2)
The door is opened and closed by a pair of chains attached to the face of the damper door (image 51-3). They hang down on the left and right side of the firebox.
The damper frame is narrow and the damper pivots on a center shaft. When the damper is open there is very little access to the smoke shelf or flue tile above the damper (image 51-4).
There is usually 2″ to 9″ of uninterrupted vertical space under the damper before the lintel opens to the room.

Because of the limited access above the damper. We will focus on products that install below the damper.

The Flueblocker is a durable option

51-6 Where to Measure for a Flueblocker

The Flueblocker is the best solution for this application, since the chains below the damper door can easily be pressed to the side of the firebox. Here is how a Flueblocker is installed:

Measure the wall to wall area left to right, and front to back below the damper (see yellow arrows in image 51-6). Then buy a Flueblocker that is a few inches bigger. If it is a really large area you may have to contact us for a custom size quote.
Tuck the Flueblocker into the area you had measured. If it is over-sized, it may bow upward a bit from the pressure fit, or you can trim it to fit with sharp scissors.
Remove the Flueblocker before you have a fire.

What about the Chimney Balloon?

51-7 Looking Up At a Chimney Balloon Below a Chain Damper

You can use a Chimney Balloon to plug the wall to wall area below a damper like this. There has to be at least 9″ of vertical space below the damper to fit the balloon in (image 51-7). Measure wall to wall left to right and front to back below the damper and buy a Chimney Balloon that is slightly larger than that. For example, if you measure 34×13 then buy a 36×15 Chimney Balloon. When you inflate the Chimney Balloon in place it may bulge below the lintel a bit and be visible from the room. The Chimney Balloon will require a top-off of air each 6 to 12 months, and it is not quite as durable as non-inflatable plugs. So consider it a “Plan B” for this application.

#50: I Have a Chimney Top Damper with a Cable Coming Down. How do I Plug the Flue?

by blogediter | Aug 31, 2017 | Fireplaces

#50: I Have a Chimney Top Damper with a Cable Coming Down. How do I Plug the Flue?

50-1 Chimney Top Damper Cable Coming Thru Old Damper Frame

50-2 Chimney Top Damper Cable Entering the Firebox

50-3 Lymance Brand Top Seal Damper on Chimney Top

50-4 Damper Cable Decending Flue Tile and Smoke Shelf

50-6 Damper Cable Descending into Firebox

Fireplace #50: Chimney Top Damper with Cable Down the Flue

These retrofitted chimney top dampers come in a variety of styles and brands. They are currently a very popular solution for replacing traditional throat dampers. These are their characteristics of top-sealing dampers:

They have a long cable or chain that descends from the damper apparatus at the chimney crown (image 50-3) to the firebox (image 50-6).
The chimney cable locks into a bracket mounted on the side of the firebox. (image 50-6)
If there was a lower traditional throat damper in this fireplace, it was removed or cut out to allow the cable to come down (image 50-1).
These top-sealing dampers can be used in round flue liners, or in square flue tile (image 50-4)

The nice thing about these chimney top dampers is they are easy to open and close, and they are suitable replacements for aged and rotted throat dampers that are hard to get parts for or rebuild. The downside to these top-dampers is they tend to trap in chimney odor and can sometimes feel drafty even when they seal tightly. Bottling a chimney at the top is problematic in many ways.

The Flueblocker is the durable solution

For this application, go with a Flueblocker. Here is a video on how the Flueblocker works.

Take a quick measurement of the narrow opening just above your firebox (Image 50-1). Often this will be the old metal damper frame of an old throat damper
Buy a Flueblocker that a little large than the hole. It pressure fits, so it doesn’t hurt to have a little extra material. Just don’t buy one that is too small.
The Flueblocker is a wool pad with extra hems, so you can trim it to size with sharp scissors.
You can cut a small slit in the edge of the wool pad for the top-damper cable to come down through. That way you can keep the top damper closed ,and have the Flueblocker installed.

#41: I Have a Damper with No Handle or Opener. How Do I Plug the Flue?

by blogediter | Aug 31, 2017 | Fireplaces

#41: I Have a Damper with No Handle or Opener. How Do I Plug the Flue?

41-1 Closed Damper with No Handle or Opener

41-2 Open Damper with No Handle or Opener

41-3 Broken Rusted-Out Damper Door

41-4 Location to Measure for a Flueblocker

Fireplace #41: Damper with No Handle or Opening Hardware

If you look up and see a damper that has no handle and there is no opening and closing apparatus at all inside or outside of the fireplace a few things are possible:

There use to be a damper handle or mechanism, but it broke or rusted out. (image 41-3)
There never was a handle and this damper is just designed to be opened by hand. (image 41-1)

In both of these cases, I would not trust this metal damper. This is why: Imagine you open that damper by hand, start a fire in the fireplace, and then leave the room to go to the bathroom, or make a sandwich, or whatever… While you are gone the gradual heating and expansion of the damper causes it to fall closed. This damper very possibly could be missing the counterweight or mechanical apparatus that generally holds it open. So this is a likely scenario. Now your home is filling with smoke and fumes from the closed damper, and you have to rush to figure out how to get in the flaming-hot firebox and flip the damper open again.

The Flueblocker below the damper

The Flueblocker is the best solution for this application, since there is no damper hardware to contend with. Here is how a Flueblocker is installed:

Measure the wall to wall area left to right, and front to back below the damper (image 41-4).
Buy a Flueblocker that is the proper size or a few inches large. You can trim it to size with scissors if needed. If you don’t find the size you need in our standard sizes contact us for a custom quote.
Tuck the Flueblocker into the area you had measured. If it is over-sized, it may bow upward a bit from the pressure fit.

#40: I Have a Fireplace with a Twist-Knob on the Face of the Fireplace. How Do I Plug the Flue?

by blogediter | Aug 30, 2017 | Fireplaces

#40: I Have a Fireplace with a Twist-Knob on the Face of the Fireplace. How Do I Plug the Flue?

40-1 Open Worm Gear Twist-Knob Damper

40-2 Closed Worm Gear Twist-Knob Damper

40-3 Twist Knob on the Lintel Face

40-4 Inner Lip of the Lintel

Fireplace #40: Vestal Damper with Worm Gear Twist-Knob

These twist-handle worm gear actuated Vestal dampers are very common in masonry fireplaces of solid construction brick or stone. They come in a variety of sizes. The mechanical worm gear shaft of this damper has a tendency to jam or break. This locks up the damper door and makes access to the area above the damper difficult. These are their characteristics of the worm gear twist-handle Vestal dampers:

They have a rectangular cast iron damper door that can be 24″ to 45″ long. (image 40-1)
The door is opened and closed by a twist knob on the lintel face of the fireplace. (image 40-3)
There is usually 5″ to 9″ of uninterrupted vertical space under the damper before the lintel opens to the room. (image 40-4)

Because of the propensity for this damper to jam closed. We will focus on products that install below the damper.

The Flueblocker covers the whole damper and worm gear

The Flueblocker is the best solution for this application, since the damper hardware below the damper door is not protruding down into the firebox. Here is how a Flueblocker is installed:

Measure the wall to wall area left to right, and front to back below the damper (see yellow arrows). Then buy a Flueblocker that is a few inches bigger. If it is a really large area you may have to contact us for a custom size quote.
Tuck the Flueblocker into the area you had measured. If it is over-sized, it may bow upward a bit from the pressure fit.
Remove the Flueblocker before you have a fire.

What about the Chimney Balloon?

You can use a Chimney Balloon to plug the wall to wall area below a damper like this. There has to be at least 9″ of vertical space below the damper to fit the balloon in (image 40-4). Measure wall to wall left to right and front to back below the damper and buy a Chimney Balloon that is slightly larger than that. For example, if you measure 34×13 then buy a 36×15 Chimney Balloon. The Chimney Balloon will require a top-off of air each 6 to 12 months, and it is not quite as durable as non-inflatable plugs. So consider it a “Plan B” for this application.

#33: I Have a Side Handle Vestal Damper. How Do I Plug the Flue?

by blogediter | Aug 30, 2017 | Fireplaces

#33: I Have a Side Handle Vestal Damper. How Do I Plug the Flue?

33-1 Open Side-Handle Vestal Damper

33-2 Closed Side-Handle Vestal Damper

33-3 Removable Cotter Pin Hinging Handle to Damper

33-4 Variation of Side Handle design

33-5 Flueblocker above the damper frame

33-6 Chimney Balloon Above the Damper

Fireplace #33: Side-Handle Vestal Damper

These Side-Handle Vestal Dampers are not very common. The Center-Handle Vestal Dampers are much more common. They are found in masonry fireplaces of solid brick or stone. These are their characteristics:

They have a long rectangular cast iron damper frame and matching door.
The door has a short curved cast iron handle sticking down with saw teeth (image 33-1)
The damper handles can be a variety of designs (image 33-4).
The handle pushes up through a bracket to open the damper door. (image 33-2)
Handles are hinged to the damper door by a cotter pin or a bolt. (image 33-3)
The damper door closes against the frame at a 45 degree angle, and opens past vertical.

There are both above the damper and below the damper install options for this application.

Flueblocker provides a durable and tight seal

The Flueblocker works well in this application, but you will have to get the damper door out of the way first. The Flueblocker will replace your metal damper door, and it will do a better job.

With pliers, straighten and pull the cotter pin that holds the damper handle to the damper door (image 33-3). Then remove the damper handle.
With the handle removed, you can push up on the damper door. It is now unhinged and free, since it is just setting in the frame by gravity. You can either flip the door back into the smoke shelf. Or turn the door sideways and lower it down through the damper frame to remove it.
Measure the damper frame hole opening, and install a Flueblocker that is a few inches larger than the opening. It is best to hook the Flueblocker pad through the damper frame opening, and then pull the pad back toward you to seal (image 33-5)
The Flueblocker is a wool pad with extra hems, so you can trim it down to size with sharp scissors.

If you want a tight seal, and don’t mind some maintenance, use a Chimney Balloon

The Chimney Balloon can work well in this application. It generally installs just above the damper frame at the bottom of the smoke shelf. It gives you a very tight seal, however it is an inflatable. So it is not as durable as the other options. And it requires a top-off on air every 6 to 12 months because of the swings in outside air temperature.

Here are the steps to use a Chimney Balloon:

Open the damper as far as you can.
With a folding carpenters ruler or tape measure, get the length and width of the smoke chamber area just above the damper frame .
Buy a Chimney Balloon that is a little large for the application. For example, If you measure 33″L x 13″ W, buy a 36×15 Chimney Balloon.
Lay the Chimney Balloon flat, then fold it in half length-wise (Like a big soft shell taco) away from the handle valve. This will allow you to easily tuck the deflated Chimney Balloon through the damper opening.
When the deflated Chimney Balloon is setting on top of the damper frame, start blowing air into it. The damper frame will hold up the balloon as you inflate, and the belly of the balloon will be pressed against the damper frame. The handle valve will be sticking out of the damper frame opening. (image 33-6)
Once the Chimney Balloon starts grabbing the sides of the chimney wall, do not reposition the balloon. The balloon material has a grabbing property on its outer layer. Moving it while it is grabbing will risk a puncture.
Once it is installed you close the valve on the handle. You can then remove the inflation tube if you want to, or you can leave it hang down as a reminder.