Top 10 Energy Efficiency Myths

This is an article that was written by CCI’s Brad Wray about the top 10 home energy myths. CCI has done thousands of home energy audits on the home since 1979 so they know all the bad information out there about home energy. They also know all the good information so they can pass that on to you!

Read and Learn about the top 10 energy myths. Here is a short excerpt from their article:

Myth 9: Fiberglass Insulation alone will stop cold air from coming into your home.

While insulating is important, the job is not done until a home has been air sealed. Air sealing is the process of stopping air leaks and drafts which often occur though cracks between drywall and baseboards, windows, doors and any holes in an exterior surface. Insulating is like putting on a warm winter sweater, while air sealing is like putting on a windbreaker so that air doesn’t blow right through the sweater. Lets say you’ve got a hole in your attic floor where you can feel cold or warm air coming through. Putting a piece of insulation in this hole accomplishes very little. Air passes through most types of insulation quite easily. What you need to do is block the hole off using drywall or fiberboard and then insulate it with fiberglass batt or loose fill. Or better yet, hit two birds with one stone by using insulating foam board with a foil back, it blocks air and resists temperature differences. These items can all be purchased at your local hardware store.

8. Myth: Microwaves use a lot of electricity.

The simple explanation to this energy myth is that in the past microwaves used a whole lot of electricity…”
Click Here to read the rest of this article.

Can a Chimney Balloon work with a top sealing damper?

Can a Chimney Balloon work with a top sealing damper?

Lock Top Damper Cable

Q: Jason, I have a 113-year-old house with 6 fireplaces … they were originally coal-burning units .. they all have the lymance lock top damper on the top of the chimney … will the Chimney Balloon work with that configuration? – GB

A: GB, WOW 6 fireplaces! that has to be some kind of record! It is very wise that you have a chimney top damper on these chimneys, however the chimney top damper still allows the warm air of your home to rise up into the chimney and cool in the chimney and sink back down. You may notice a slow cool release of air from your fireplaces. That cool air is likely not outside air, but just cooled inside air sinking back down again. We have had customers with chimney top dampers that have used the Chimney Balloon on the bottom of their chimney in addition to their top damper and it has made a difference. With 6 chimneys the difference would be significant.

Q: Jason, thanks for the response … one of my concerns is if the damper cable will interfere with the Chimney Balloon sealing property. And if I am using a Chimney Balloon and a lock top damper … could I just use a Chimney Balloon, and not bother with the lock top damper? – GB

A: GB, Recently a homeowner in Detroit asked me the same question you are asking when he ordered 3 Chimney Balloons for his home. He had Lock-top dampers just like you, on all three chimneys as well. After he installed the Chimney Balloon he reported that it sealed just fine despite the chain or cable. The Chimney Balloon simply presses the chain or cable against the flue wall if the cable is relaxed. Or if the cable or chain is tight, the Chimney Balloon will envelop and expand around the cable causing no noticeable leak or draft. To read more on how to deal with the tight cable read this article: http://www.chimneyballoonusa.com/blog/2007/11/my-lock-top-or-.html As for your second question… a Chimney Balloon can work just fine all by itself. – Jason

An interesting story about how someone uses their Chimney Balloon

This posting was found on Google Groups and I thought it was an interesting and relevant post on this blog.

Q: My wood burning fireplace has a lot of missing mortar between the bricks right behind where the logs go. I went to Home Depot and they sell fireplace mortar in a tube (the kind you need to use a caulking gun). The area that needs the mortar has a lot of soot around it. Would I need to clean the soot off before applying this mortar stuff? If so, how do one clean year of soot? Thanks. -RR

A: RR, I don’t throw around the term “have a pro look at it” a lot but in this case, your description of “a lot of missing mortar” concerns me. If it is that way in the hearth it is bound to be that way in the chimney and you need to know if it is. Cracked or missing mortar is a serious problem and can easily lead to a house fire.

If that suggestion doesn’t appeal to your wallet but you still like the fireplace then you are just like me. My fireplace was in bad shape due to mortar issues, a bad crusty worn & damper, but I still liked the look of the fireplace. I didn’t want to bother with repairs so I bought a nice candelabra and a Chimney Balloon. I use the candelabra and light it up when I want some ambiance (just like I used the fireplace). Doing this actually saved money on my gas bill since the fireplace didn’t suck the heat out on my home when I was using it. The Chimney Balloon helped me seal up the damper nice and tight when I wasn’t using it at all which also prevented the den from feeling so cold in the winter. I know this is a different way to look at the issue with your fireplace, but the best I can offer is what worked for me. -GJ

My home gets smokey when the furnace and the fireplace are being used at the same time.

Q: Jason – Our house gets smoky when our furnace runs while using the fireplace. The chimney inspector told us we needed to extend the fireplace chimney, so he did. We keep a window cracked by the fireplace as he suggested. that didnt fix it, so it still gets smoky in the house when the furnace runs. – LW

A: I would suggest a couple of things try while you are running your fireplace. these things should help you diagnose where the issue is.

1) Burn a fire in the fireplace with the glass doors closed first…if this eliminates the problem then the smoke is comming straight out of the hearth and getting into your cold air return for circulation around the house. Be sure to compare burnin with the doors closed first and then the doors open.

2) Try running your furnace on fan only and see if the problem is still there. If it is not then your furnace is drawing air from the outside that is smokey. If it is still there than it is certain that your cold air return is getting access to the smoke somehow.

3) If this smoke problem is intermittent then try to note which direction the wind is blowing when this happens. Wind can be a factor in the fireplace smoke wisping past the furnace intake. this is particularly an issue if you have a direct vent furnace.

4) Did your chimney inspector do a complete inspection of the interior of your chimney. Possibly a camera inspection should be done. If you have a crack in your chimney liner the smoke may be getting into the home that way. A damaged liner is a very dangerouse situation that will need immediate repair. – Jason

My fireplace is giving me a headache, litterally!

Q: Jason – I have a gas fireplace and I get a headache and get sick every time I run it for a long period of time. I started running vaporizers or humidifiers when I run the fireplace and now I’m not getting headaches or sick. – BE

A: BE, I don’t mean to be an alarmist here, but you have a very serious problem with your fireplace. It is obviously putting out a serious amount of Carbon Monoxide. This is a lethal problem!

I could try to troubleshoot this for you on the phone but I need you to promise 3 things to me first. You must do them all at the same time.

  1. Do NOT use your fireplace
  2. Buy a carbon monoxide tester today in case there is another contributing factor in your home.
  3. Call a local reputable fireplace dealer or chimney sweep to look at your fireplace.

OK, that said, I feel better now that you won’t die while I am typing this letter. There is any number of things that could be causing your fireplace issue. I am certain your humidifiers are not correcting the issue. You likely have an obstruction in your flue, or an insufficient draft, or some mechanical issue with your gas fixture. I could try to go over this with you but it would be time and money well spent to bring in a local pro to look it over in person. If you have any specific questions though please let me know. – Jason